Q:  Bill, first off, great show. Thank you for all the helpful advice. Second, great store. Thank you for the great prices and more importantly, service.

OK, here is my situation. We moved into this house approx 10 years ago. The previous owner had a 3 seasons room installed off of our kitchen that looks out over our large backyard. Over the years we have noticed worms on the floor and an odor coming from that room. Usually in early spring.

What I have since found out... The owner allowed the company to install the 3 seasons room on top of an existing wood deck that sits approx 4 inched off the ground. They installed 3mm laminate flooring. So, everytime it rains and water gets under there, so do the worms..and much like the water, worms "wick" up an we find they all over the floor, dried up (which my wife just "loves"). I believe that my odor problem is from the laminate flooring soaking wet, never able to fully dry.....

So, I now need to deal with it. What I was thinking... Tear up the flooring and place concrete board down over the existing wood deck, over that, tile. Will this suffice or cause more problems?

I know the correct procedure would be to pour a concrete slab however, i really don't want to go through all of the pain, aggravation and money for this as it really only gets used 3 seasons...

Let me know your thoughts.
Thanks,
Mike of Mechanicsburg

A:  You have a situation that if continued will eventually rot the deck out underneath the laminate flooring. To avoid a complete tear down you will need to provide an air space between the deck and the floor so that it will not rot. or to reduce the rot cover completely the ground under the deck with plastic sheeting. You can use stone ballast to improve the appearance and hold down the plastic. Just make sure you have some air movement under the deck so that it is not totally enclosed. I am not talking about putting a fan in but vents or leaving it open. You may also have to prevent the wicking of the water up the posts that hold the deck up by installing a separation plate if the posts go directly into the ground verses being in cement. It sounds like you also have a problem with water getting in from the sides especially where the wall meets the floor on the out side. this is a common problem and can be corrected with a good caulking like lexcel or big stretch. another common source of water damage is from the edges of the windows. This will require again caulking on the sides and bottom and flashing at the top of the window. Now one last thing that gets a lot of these summer rooms in trouble is where the roofs meet. At this point there are different expansion and settling rates that cause leaks and can run down and cause trouble depending on how it is constructed. Although you didn't mention this I thought I would bring it up as a precaution. Thanks for listening.

Q:  I noticed, when digging up a stump in our yard, that it was filled with termites. Are the termite eliminating products sold in stores as effective as having the house professionally treated?
Thanks, Lee

A:  Are you sure they are termites--usually you won't find termites in a stump as they typically like dry wood like in a basement. However it doesn't matter as the killer is the same as i have found Ortho Home Defense Max works very well for anything that crawls and it is recommended for termites.

Q:  A question about power mowers? Is there a brand that you could recomend? A self-propelled or no self-propelled.What about an electric start. We have alot of trim work to do (about one hour). Trees to trim around and under. Could you recomend a brand? Would there be a quiet one? We really enjoy the half hour on Saturdays whp 580.
Thanks Much,
Bill & Donna

A:  After a lot of testing and customer feed back I have come to the conclusion that the best mower is a toro aluminum deck mower as it offers the best cut. Also the cost per years of service is the lowest. I would not get electric start for trimming as it makes it about 10 #s heavier unless it is a necessity. The steel deck toros although have gotten better still are not the quality of the aluminum deck models. shop around I offer the aluminum decks at below the mapp price to inspire people to step up. Most call me back thank me for encouraging them to buy the aluminum deck model.

Q: Can you recommend a good product that will clean mold and mildew from sidewalks? I am also looking to remove oil stains from my concrete garage floor. Do you sell something that will do that? One last question if you will. I heard you talk about using TSP for cleaning decks. Please recommend a sealer and stain combination (all in one) for protecting the wood. I would want to keep the natural color. I read about a product called One Time Wood. Can you elaborate on it. Is it worth the extra money?

A:  TSP will remove mold and mildew and oil stains on concrete. One Time is a great product but comes at a price of 75 but is to last 7 years.. as talked about the prep can really help to make it last I like CWS in the cedar because the cedar tone gives it a little extra color to brighten it up but is a 3 to 4 year at best.
Thanks,
Bill

Q: Hi Bill, I am down here in Lancaster County and all of my radios stay tuned to 580 so I usually hear you on Saturdays. I used to work in Harrisburg, retired in 97, but I often shopped at a True Value store on 2nd street down town where I was always treated with great courtesy, I guess that was one of yours? My question regards the use of gas and oil in 2 cycle engines. I have a Lawn Boy mower which uses 8 ounces per 2 gallons gas. I also have an Echo blower/vac which calls for about half that ratio. I have trouble keeping the gas cans with the proper mix, straight. Did I get the impression from one of your latest shows that it is OK to use the mower mixture in the Echo blower? Thanks in advance for you assistance.

A:  YES, you can use the mower ratio or 8 oz per gallon in the echo, but not the other way around. The only disadvantage on the echo is that it may foul the plug up after 20 to 30 hours of use. If you use lawn boy oil it may even go longer just dont use the echo mix of 50:1 in the lawn boy mower. Thanks for your comments and listening.

Q:  I have a house with a metal roof and three years ago I cleaned the roof and used oil base primer then painted it with oil base paint. Now it is flaking so what should I do and wire brush prime and then paint and what kind of paint and primer should I use?

Thanks Dale

A:  In researching this it turns out that there are some oil base paints that are made for roofs. I don't stock them though. Using just a standard oil base paint will probably peal as a result of expansion and contraction. Oil base paints do not have much ability to expand or contract with the steel especially an area in direct sun light and consequently will peal. They will also peal as a result of the metal becoming thin from rusting and allowing moisture to pass through it. When the sun hits that area and there is any moisture on the other side say from a leak close by, the sun will draw the moisture causing the paint to peel. You will be able to tell when you are scraping the roof if it is very thin there and consequently may need to be patched. Also there are some really good products for steel roofs but only come in white like "stay kool", kool seal and other elastomeric roof coatings. Probably a paint store like Duron or Sherwin Williams will stock such paint.

Q:  I have a chain saw that requires a 32:1 gas oil mix and a snowblower that needs 40:1. Can I compromise with a 36:1 for both or will that cause damage?

A:  You can generally use a lower mix ratio ie 32:1 than a higher ratio ie 40:1 as long as it is close as yours is. A 16:1 would not do well for an item that takes 50:1 for example but a 40:1 would work ok in a 50:1. So if you want to mix only on ratio, use a 32:1 for both and you will be fine.

P.S. There are some 2 cycle mixes that are made to work for all ratios and I think are actually 100:1. We usually don't recommend them because they are not covered under warranties. We mix a general mix of 32:1 for all of our repairs.

Thanks
Bill, HHM

Q: I have a second home with a gas hot water heater that is only used a couple days a week. When not in use, I turn the thermostat on the water heater all the way down. There is a copper overflow pipe down the side of the heater that seems to drain slowly. I get maybe one-half to three-quarters of a cup over 4-day period. What is causing this leak and is there any way to prevent it? This hot water heater is in Norristown on town/city water. It seems to leak mostly (maybe only) when the temperature is set as low as possible and we are away/not using it. When we are in the apartment and need hot water, we turn it to high, heat the tank, and then turn it all the way down to low. I do not see much if any drainage when I am there. When I return 4 days later, the heater has been on lowest possible setting and I notice the leakage.

Thanks,
Alan

A: Gas water heaters when turned low will form condensation in the burning chamber of the heater and will make for puddles of water. In fact, many people suspect their heater has a leak when this occurs. If you are sure that it is coming from the relief valve then it is overpressure in the system at certain times caused by heating and cooling of the heater and that the water company puts back flow preventers on your system. Thus, when the heater is not in use and cools, it draws in cold water as the water in the heater contracts. When the unit comes on and heats the water, the water expands and since no one is there to use the water it creats an overpressure which forces water out of the relief valve rather then rupturing your heater. This can be prevented by putting in a small expansion tank. We sell ones that require no tools and are easy to install if you want. If it is condensation, you can either turn the heater off, or leave it at the full temp.

Thanks
Bill, HHM

Q: Recently my family moved into my parents home and my dad had remodeled the main bathroom. He installed a tile floor but did not seal the grout, I guess the devil is in the details. Needless to say the grout is extremely dirty and some of it has cracked. Please tell me if there is anyway I can fix this without ripping the whole floor out. Oh yea, there is a heating element under the tile also. I was hoping to just be able to possibly dremel or rotozip the grout and put new in, but my BIL told me that it wouldn't bond. Please help, we want to sell this home in the spring.

Thanks so much!
Steph

A: You can use a concentrated mixture of TSP and hot water and a scrub brush, goggles and vinyl gloves and scrub the joints. Should come pretty white. You can also use a grout tool or I have found out an old screw driver works well and scrape out about 1/8 inch of old grout and re-grout. then you can seal the grout to keep clean. I have found that it takes multiple coats to prevent it from getting dirty over the years. hope this helps.

Thanks
Bill, HHM

Q: In my basement I have paneling on the lower part of the walls. I want to paint them. I am worried that the paint may peel off. Any suggestions? My baseboard metal register needs replaced because it is rusting and pitted. Or can I also paint it?

Thanks,
Dave

A: Basements are always a problem with moisture and preparation is key to a finished product that will last. Remove any mold first with a clorox solution or some other mold removing products that are available. tsp is also a great one and the one I would recommend. Then prime the panelling with a product like kilz or 123 bin primer. I like the oil base product the best. Once primed I recommend you finish it with a paint that is formulated for high moisture areas. The metal registers come out nice if you sand the rust off and then spray paint it.

Thanks
Bill, HHM

Q:  We have a cement floor in our basement. From time to time we get water in the basement, and the excess moisture brings up the unpleasant smell of past accidents from cats who missed the litter box. After the basement dries out, the smell goes away. Of course, the first step is to figure out and resolve why we are getting water in the basement; but, I was wondering if there is a paint or something...

A:  Thompson's Water Seal is a good product for this--I don't like to paint concrete floors as it always peals and presents a problem. Also there are some enzyme odor eaters that work well. There are some concrete stains that I like that work very well and don't peal if you want some color.

Thanks Bill

Q:  Dear Bill,
I live on Blue Mountain and I love it. However, the woodpeckers have drilled several large and small holes in the side of my wood storage shed. I have screwed plywood on the interior to close them and have tried several products to patch the holes on the exterior, but the mixture has collapsed and fallen out. I think I need something other than the normal woodfiller used for nail holes and will be stiff enough to fill holes 1" without collapsing. I will be painting them with exterior stain after they have completely dried.

Thanks for your help.
Pat

A:  Woodpeckers are going after bugs so if you kill the bugs with a good insecticide like 365 it will stop the woodpeckers. Second to fill the holes use Durhams rock hard wood putty. It is very cheap and does a great job.. short work time---several minutes but is a great product.

Q:  I’m refinishing an old oak table. It has a deep, dark water stain right in the middle of it. I’ve tried to lift the stain with bleach, and I’ve tried to “blend it in” with stain. Nothing has worked. What do you suggest?

A: Try oxalic acid (wood bleach) --we carry it if you can't find it. Thanks for your question.

-Bill the "Helpful Hardware Man"

Q:  What is the best way to fix a squeaky floor with carpet or linoleum?

A: The approach is different for each. For carpeted floors #8 finish nails work well. Find the floor joist by pounding on the floor listening where the less hollow sound occurs. If you are lucky and the squeak is in a room that boarders one of the outside walls of the narrow side of the house, you can measure in 9 inches from the inside wall and then in 16 inch intervals until you get the area of the squeak, should put you on a joist. keep in mind the joist are only 1 1/2 inch wide and run parallel to the shorter side of the house(usually front to back). Sink the nails slightly below the surface with a nail set to avoid detection. it is usually necessary to nail on two or three joists and 6 inch apart along the joist and for 1 or 2 feet.

For linoleum and also an alternative to the above for carpet, you will need access to the subfloor from the ceiling in the lower floor. Using wooden or small metal wedges drive them between the joist and the subfloor. be careful not to separate the two but just insert a small amount of the wedge into the space being careful not to lift the floor up. We also carry a kit for carpet floors. it is ace number 5106125 and you can see it on www.acehardware.com.  

-Bill the "Helpful Hardware Man"

Q:  Our attic has fiberglass insulation with cellulose insulation blown over top. I would like to cover the blown insulation with a thin, breathable/perforated plastic to keep the dust down. Is there a product you could recommend?

Thanks,
Harold

A: I would recommend the landscape fabric that looks like screening but not the real cheap plastic kind with holes punched in it because it might restrict the air flow causing mildew to form. Also be very careful not to compress the insulation otherwise you will kill its insulating value.

-Bill the "Helpful Hardware Man"

Q:  Last Saturday on Hornung's Helpful Hardware Man, the question was how high or low should the mower setting be for cutting grass. The answer included reasons for a higher setting. I checked the website but did not find the audio of the program. Could you provide the answer?

Thanks,
Tom
 

A:  3 to 3.5 inches is ideal as it reduce moisture loss from the ground and reduces weeds from germinating. this usually means adjusting the mower to the 3rd or 2nd from the highest setting.

-Bill the "Helpful Hardware Man"

Q:  Quick question about backfeeding from a generator.  If I go from a 220 generator to my dryer power source do I need to reverse the breaker?  How does it know which way the power is coming from?  Is it like a Thermos?

Thanks Marty

A:  No, the breaker will work just the way it is as AC current which is what your supply is from PPL, pulses back and forth, so that 60 times per second it reverses and travels in the opposite direction. Just be very careful that you have the main breaker off when you activate the generator breaker. If you have both on at the same time and when the electricity comes back on from PPL you will have fireworks. Be very careful to make sure that you turn the main breaker off before(the main breaker is the one at the top or bottom and usually much larger) you activate the breaker (dryer breaker) on from the generator (even if it is not running but hooked up) and that you turn the generator breaker (dryer breaker) off before you turn on the main breaker----this is very important! we sell switches that do it for you but require some wiring. Thanks for listening and for your question.

Q: I'm going to repaint a room. The dry wall tape is loose at the ceiling at
several spots. What is the best way to secure this tape?

- Robert Snyder



A: I have found this to be the best but not easy. First cut out the loose area assuming it is not a big area. Then paint the area with product like kilz(must be oil base) then re-spackle, sand and paint. 

I have tried to cut out and re-spackle but only causes more of it to loosen up. 

Thanks "Your Helpful Hardware Man"

Q:  We have a 24' long shed with rain gutter downspouts. I would like to connect the two downspouts as one of the two drains to an underground pipe. I have seen the "funnel like" adaptor that joins the two downspouts on barns, older houses, etc..

Bill, where can I find this "funnel" gizmo?

A:  Fagars on the west shore has 2 of them for $7.50 each.