QUESTION - My husband is a passionate , lifelong golfer (I am not) and wants us to vacation in Scotland this fall. Of course I know Scotland is world-famous for being the "Home of Golf", however, what do you recommend for the non-golfer?

ANSWER - My husband, Stewart, is also a devoted golfer, and like you, I thought Scotland was all about golf...and bagpipes, tartans, clans and whiskey. (Think Rob Roy meets Tiger Woods.) Boy, was I wrong.

Yes, the world's first golf clubs were Muirfield and the Royal and Ancient at St. Andrews...and yes, most golfers visiting Scotland are keen to play the famous (and not so famous) championship courses several times during their stay. But don't let that stop you from spending at least one full day in St. Andrews walking throughout Scotland's oldest university town with its cobblestone streets, crooked housefronts, medieval churches and traditional pubs. (During our time in St. Andrews the course was closed for play as the "Dunhill Open" was taking place - but fun and free to watch the pros and celebrities.)

A land of magnificent beauty, I found Scotland to be a distinctive and unique destination offering the traveler spectacular scenery, musical celebrations, an abundance of sports & recreation, historic monuments & castles and world-class cuisine and accommodations.

We flew into Glasgow, rented a car and stayed overnight in Glasgow's residential West End at the highly acclaimed "One Devonshire Gardens". A stunning boutique hotel where you are greeted by a Scotsman in full tartan dress and welcomed with a "wee dram" of whiskey - a perfect way to begin your Scottish holiday.

Our plan was to drive north, through the Highlands, and stay at elegant country manor houses and small hotels before ending our trip in Edinburgh.

If you love breathtaking scenery, the Highlands will not disappoint - nor will the picturesque villages , sparkling lochs, historic castles & ancient ruins (which seem to be everywhere and come out of nowhere - but the most impressive when you spot them on a small island in the middle of a loch).

It was a perfect, although very busy, itinerary for us. Driving and touring (castles, distilleries, ruins & medieval towns) most of the day and checking into our small hotels late in the afternoon - just in time for a friendly chat with our host, a warm & cozy fire and a hot cup of tea.

Most of the properties offered a breakfast and dinner package which we loved. Every night all house guests would gather in the living room (always in front of a roaring fire) for pre-dinner cocktails, light-hearted conversation (usually about where you came from and where you were going) and a description of the evening meal from the chef. (A miniature and unpretentious Gosford Park - well, kind of.)

Just to mention a few of the properties we loved and highly recommend : The Airds Hotel in Port Appin; Castleton House Hotel in Angus and Loch Ness Lodge in Loch Ness - Inverness (see Loch Ness expert interview in AAA Touch - Jan/Feb)

Our final destination was the historic city of Edinburgh - the seat of Scotland's new parliament and the royal residence of Holyroodhouse Palace. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Edinburgh is dominated by the imposing and world-famous Edinburgh Castle sitting high above the city. An outstanding walking city, we explored the castle (and crown jewels), the Royal Mile, Old Town and Princess Street. We stayed at The Roxburgh Hotel in the residential Georgian "New Town" Charlotte Square neighborhood, a terrific hotel and location.

Scotland was so much more than I ever expected it to be and I loved every moment we were there.

**Although most of our Scotland trip was independent, AAA has excellent partnerships with tour companies that are travel experts in Scotland. Our stay in Edinburgh was coordinated through CIE Tours and they have an outstanding reputation for British, Scottish and Irish tour packages.**